Niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3, which is also recognized as an anti-aging ingredient in the field of cosmetic skin science. In recent years, more and more attention has been paid to it. Its most important effect in the aspect of anti-aging skin is to reduce and prevent the skin color darkening, yellowing and sallow in the early aging process. Of course, the contribution of niacinamide to the skin is much more than that. It can also repair the damaged lipid barrier of the stratum corneum and improve the skin resistance. There are also some effects that may be overlooked by people, is the deep water locking effect of niacinamide, therefore, skin care products containing niacinamide have strong water locking and moisturizing effect. When the concentrations of niacinamide were 0.25mg/mL and 1.25mg/mL, the movement rate of melanocytes significantly increased (P< 0.05), and the concentration of melanosomes decreased with the increase of niacinamide concentration. Conclusion Niacinamide is involved in melanin transport and can accelerate the movement rate of melanocytes, indicating that niacinamide has a regulatory effect on calcium pump, the expression of Dynein and the movement of melanocytes, and the concentration is an important regulatory factor.

The skin becomes dull and yellow with age, which can be improved by topical niacinamide. A randomized study showed that after niacinamide was used twice a day, skin texture was significantly improved and fine lines and wrinkles were significantly reduced at the 8th week. At the 12th week, the skin becomes elastic, and the pigmentation and erythema are significantly reduced.

Aging skin has declining levels of NADH and NADPH, which control the process of synthesis and breakdown in cells. Niacinamide acts as a precursor to NADH and NADPH by regulating the balance of both levels in vivo. High levels of NADPH play a powerful antioxidant role, preventing spontaneous glycosylation of proteins and sugars. Glycosylation produces glycosylated protein deposits in the dermis, which appear yellowish brown. There are five times more glycation products between dermal collagen in 80-year-old skin than in 20-year-old skin. Glycated proteins play an important role in the dark yellowness of aging skin. Niacinamide enhances the anti-glycation effect of NADPH, thus reducing the yellowing of aging skin, alleviating facial color and improving skin quality.

Enlarged pores are one of the texture problems of the skin. Topical niacinamide can reduce the production of fatty acids and triglycerides in sebum, thereby narrowing pores and reducing the severity of acne.

Ceramide is an important component of skin barrier. Ceramide levels were significantly reduced in the cuticle of atopic dermatitis, elderly skin, and dry winter skin. Niacinamide enhances skin barrier function by increasing ceramide content in the stratum corneum and reduces transdermal water loss.